They built a V&A. Look behind it.

Dundee was jute, jam and journalism. The jute mills shut and the jam factory went. What's left is a V&A on the waterfront built to look like a ship, and the rest of the city looking at it from behind a row of empty shops on the Murraygate. They call it the City of Discovery, after the old polar ship parked by the station, the only thing in town that's ever been anywhere.

The fires are something else. There are nearly twice as many deliberate fires per head as in the typical Scottish town, mostly bins, and the count keeps going up. Vehicle crime is over three times the typical Scottish town's, and robbery three times. If they haven't had the car, they've set fire to the bin beside it.

Dens Park and Tannadice are on the same street, a few hundred yards apart, so Dundee and United fans can hate each other without needing a bus. There are 9 Greggs, twice the typical town's per head, and that's before you count the bakers selling pehs.

The editor, who parked where he could see the car